sushi ukiyoe

Chronology, origins and genealogy of sushi

The timeline of sushi in Japan is unfortunately not entirely clear yet. A chronological overview can be summarized as follows:

Chronology of Sushi in Japan

B.C. 300 — Origins of Rice Cultivation

China Dynasty: Chin
(Rice cultivation started - introduction from the south part of China.)

200 — Salted Fish Preservation

China Dynasty: Han
Example: Salted fish guts [Ki / Shi]

A.D. 100 — Stored Fish

Example: Stored fish [Sa], [Kin]

200 — Early Carp Sushi

Example: Carp sushi (Nare-zushi)

700 — Nare-zushi

Example: Funa-zushi
Preparation time: 1 - 3 year(s)
China Dynasty: Tang
Chinese Example: Sturgeon sushi
Salted fish and cooked rice are multi-layered in a bucket and stored under stone weight and water to be fully 'fermented' without the air. Only the fish is eaten principally.
(The Origin)

1500 — Nama-nare (Nama-nari)

Example: Ayu-zushi
Preparation time: 1 month
China Dynasty: Ming
Chinese Example: Carp sushi (Nama-nare)
Semi-fermented (yet still half 'raw') under stone weight. Sweet fish ('ayu') was very common. Rice part was also eaten.

Ii-zushi

Example: Suzume-zushi
Preparation time: Days
Cooked 'rice' was fully stuffed into inside of carp as looks like a sparrow ('suzume') and pressed under stone weight. The rice part was also eaten as the main.
(Sushiman)

1600 — Haya-zushi

Example: Saba-zushi
Preparation time: 1 night
Status in China: Declining
Rice was vinegared and pressed with seasoned fish under weight and it could be eaten 'earl(y)ier' than ever.
(Izuu)

1700 — Hako-zushi

Example: Kokera-zushi
Preparation time: Hour(s)
China Dynasty: Ching
Status in China: Almost disappeared
In a wooden frame-'box,' thinly sliced fish chips ('kokera') are placed over rice and just pressed only by a board and hands. Cut into small rectangular pieces to eat.
Typical for 'Osaka-zushi' style.

1800 — Nigiri-zushi

Example: Nigiri-zushi
Preparation time: A few seconds
Status in China: Extinct
Sliced raw fish (sashimi) and vinegared rice (Shari) ball are 'hand formed' together at once.
Also called as 'Edo-mae' (Tokyo) style. Edomae-zushi.
(Hanaya Yohei, How to Make Nigiri)

2000 — Kawari-zushi

Example: California rolls, etc.
With 'unusual' sushi-dane toppings, diversifying into worldwide.

The origin of sushi:

Southeast Asia and China:


asian map

Very similar and sushi-like (Nare-zushi type) foods are still found in Southeast Asian countries (Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia, etc.) now, and the plains of the north of Thailand and Myanmar, where people make their living by both rice cultivation and fishery - fishing in rivers and rice paddy fields, could be considered as the birth place of the 'original sushi' from well before Christ, and it disseminated to the south part of China, and Japan consequently.

The original concept of sushi is, by the aid of starchy rice, to preserve those of protein-rich foods, fresh water fish and flesh meat, which were not always obtainable through the dry and rainy seasons.  This kind of preservation method could not be existed without the development of rice cultivation.

Natural fermentation is taken place when fish is kept long with millet or rice, starchy grains, and the generated lactic acid prevents from rotting.  But in a long storage time, the rice part gets too soppy to eat and it was abandoned as a waste after all.

By getting well-off, people did not need a long storage period for preservation and also utilized the 'precious' rice part, then sushi became a dish to eat both the rice part and fish, in still semi-raw, together (Nama-nare type.)

In those countries, sushi has not much changed or improved its basic style till now, further it had completely disappeared in China by ca. 1800 eventually as the fact.

 

In Japan:

It does not exactly known still now when and how sushi came to Japan.  The first evidence concerning sushi in Japan is found in an old law document, Taiho-Ritsuryo (701/718) that referred awabi (abalone) and igai (mussel/moule) in Nare-zushi type.  As in the rice cultivating country, sushi in Japan has much relation with rice and it has been integrated into today's splendid Nigiri-zushi type, and still been changing its style continuously in the world.

Genealogy:

Genealogy of sushi and varieties of local sushi in Japan.

sushi genealogy


Terminology: 

Type / Example Meaning
Nare-zushi
Funa-zushi
Fermented
Crucian carp
Nama-nare
Nare-zushi
Tsunashi-zushi
Semi-fermented and raw
(Semi-fermented)
Young gizzard shad
I-zushi
Kabura-zushi
Hatahata-zushi
Adding malted rice to aid fermentation
Turnip
Sand fish
Sugata-zushi / Bou-zushi
Ayu-zushi
Saba-zushi
Suzume-zushi
Uncut and full-figure / Stick style
Sweet fish
Mackerel
Carp stuffed like a sparrow
Ii-zushi
Kokera-zushi
Hako-zushi
Rice-based
Thin chips
Box style
Unohana-zushi
Too-zushi
Oman-zushi
Bean curd residue used instead of rice
(Specific name)
(Specific name)
Kata-iri gomoku
Oomura-zushi
Mixed in frame
Minced ingredients
Nigiri-zushi Hand-formed sushi
Gomoku-zushi / Chirashi-zushi Mixed ingredients / Spread over rice
Maki-zushi
Nori-maki
Konbu-maki
Rolled sushi
Laver seaweed
Kelp
Kawari-zushi
Inrou-zushi
Inari-zushi
Mebari-zushi
Unusual sushi styles
(Wrapped style)
Wrapped with fried bean curd
(Specific name)

Source:
SHINODA, Osamu. Sushi no hon (Book of Sushi), 1970.06.25 / 1993.03.15, Shibata Shoten, ISBN: 438835189X, p.26 (Out of print).
Ibid., 2002.11.01, Iwanami Shoten, ISBN: 4006030703.